Discussion in 'Off-Topic Chat' started by SuperMosh, Sep 22, 2006.

  1. SuperMosh

    SuperMosh New Member

    Hello tMPers

    To cut a long story short, the new kitchen we have purchasedmis no longer going to be fitted by the chap I had lined up to do this work.

    What I am after is some specific advice re how a novice DIYer could even contemplate putting this kitchen in. Those of you who know Flutey (tMP's manic poster - check her daily count) will know she's my little sister and more importantly, she and her mum and dad are coming to my house in 3 weeks.

    I have successfully removed 80% of the old kitchen and installed this in an outside (but adjourning) outhouse - just need the plumbing sorting which I will get done professionally. I have also built most of the base carcassess and the wall units are being built as we speak.

    Any helpful ideas on the following (or any obvious bits I have missed) would be ace:

    - What jigsaw blade cuts clean through laminated worktops?
    - How to fit integrated dishwashers and fridges
    - Tiling
    - Fitting carcassess together
    - Fitting doors


  2. DaveR

    DaveR Active Member

    Reading, UK
    Not sure I fancy cutting a worktop with a jigsaw, they are a bit hard. You may be better with a circular saw. Is there enough length in the worktop to have a practice cut first? You could also try taping along the line you want to cut so that you hopefully avoid splitting the laminate. Good luck!
  3. johnsey88

    johnsey88 New Member

    use a new sharp wood saw for the work tops,and take ur time cuttin it,b4 u fit the dishwasher u will need 2 get hold of a plumber to plumb in ur waste and cold feed,tilling is a peice of **** trust me,and fitting the doors and carcasses there is that comes with it all.

    frm sammy the leaky (plumber) sop
  4. julestools

    julestools Active Member

    In my shed (still)
    Not done a kitchen for a few years but was no problem. Did all wiring, plumbing and tiling too but we had not moved in to the house at the time. Used a jigsaw for the worktops but was a pain in the ass cutting the hole for the sink.

    Fitting a bathroom at the moment. Tried to do it in one weekend but all the plaster fell off the walls (******), the basin was cracked, had to rip out the lead pipes and got the wrong shower. Just the tiling to finish now though and it's done (good job cos i'm starting to stink a little)

    Good luck and have fun

  5. robcornet

    robcornet Member

    When cutting the sink out use a down cutting jigsaw blade as this doesn't splinter. Also coat the inside raw edge with mastik as this stops the water getting into the chipboard and causing it to swell. Use a circular saw to cut the top to length and if possible use a router and jig to join any corner joints.
  6. FlugelD

    FlugelD Member

    Personally, I'm not religious...

    ... but prayer might be an option :-?

    Failing that, cut worktops with a 'down' cutting blade...
    Dishwashers & fridges - see your local DIY superstore for advice, then panic & get an expert (actually, most DIY plumbing and wiring isn't difficult if you have a modicum of common sense... and a reel of PTFE tape)
    Tiling - ask the DIY guys, spend loadsa cash on spacers, etc OR panic and get the experts OR (personal fav!) take your time, break the job down, do a bit at a time - if my 73-y-o arthritic dad can do it, you can...
    Carcasses - read the instructions. Part A, screw B, simple - must be, I managed it...
    Doors - bang 'em up, balance/straighten later. (Might take (a) patience, (b) a day or two. Or three. You'll get there.)

    Seriously, not impossible for a novice DIYer - just get some muscle, for shifting/holding, the right tools where possible, and allow twice as long as anyone suggests for any particular job. And good luck...;)
  7. Roger Thorne

    Roger Thorne Active Member

    Wem, Shropshire UK
    Not wishing to be the party pooper on this thread, but all gas and electrical renewal/repair work should be carried out by a competent, qualified person. Regarding electrical work, it is worth mentioning that new building regulations were introduced in 2005. Basically, minor jobs like replacing sockets and light switches in low risk areas are not affected, however adding new circuits to any part of the house including bathrooms and kitchens will have to get building control involved.

    My only advice is to be realistic and don't tackle the job unless you really have the ability, correct tools, safety equipment, time and patience to do so.

    And finally, before you start, here are some latest DIY accident statistics!

    70 people die each year as a result of DIY accidents
    100,000 people per year visit hospital casualty departments after DIY injuries
    40,000 people go to hospital every year following accidents involving ladders or stepladders
    20,000 accidents are caused by knives and scalpels per year making these the most dangerous DIY tools
    4,000 people fall victim each year to the seemingly harmless paint and paint pots.

    Have fun!

  8. SuperMosh

    SuperMosh New Member

    Just done some wiring and it looks fi
  9. WoodenFlugel

    WoodenFlugel Moderator Staff Member

    I tiled our kitchen wall and floor a while ago and (if I say so myself) I think I made a reasonable job of it - well the tiles are still stuck down anyway... :rolleyes: It was my first attempt at doing tiling and I learnt a lot. It was quite a big job as the kitchen is fairly large and I used small 100mm square tiles (hence a lot of tiling). Here are some tips that I learnt and picked up from others:

    1. Firstly don't contemplate doing anything without buying a decent electric tile cutter, like this one. I started using a score and snap thing, and it took ages (and gave me sore hands as I was cutting 8mm terracotta tiles :eek: ) then my mate lent me his cutter and I was amazed at how much time it saved. A decent one should cost between £50-£80 and it make the whole job an awful lot easier and quicker.

    3. Most tile shops will work out how many tiles, adhesive and grout you need. Its best to give yourself at least 10% margin of error over whatever the area works out as.

    2. Make sure your walls are fairly good to start with. By that I mean have sound plaster, and no odd bulges or dips in them. Any unevenness will mean you will have to compensate with the tiles, which is a pain. Or the bulge will be exaggerated by the finished job.

    3. Plan each wall before you start. Make sure you're not going to get silly 5mm slivers of tiles at the ends of the wall or around windows. Usually try to get an even amount of "part tile" at each end of the wall, or if (like me) you have a large window make sure the tiles at the sides of the window will be even on both sides. Once you have planned it, go back and do it again to make sure. My end wall (with the big window) also had a pipe concealing box to be tiled around, two end runs of units as well as the window. In all I took about an hour and a half to plan it all out, moving my start position slightly until I got everything just right.

    4. Use a good horizontal and vertical start point. I used the worktop as the horizontal reference, and nailed a wooden baton to the wall as my vertical start point. Make sure you nail your baton to the wall nice and vertically (use a sprit level) otherwise you will have huge problems when you get going. Usually make the vertical start point is the edge of your first whole tile.

    5. Use tile spacers, and don't worry about digging them out afterwards. Just make sure you have them pushed right back to the wall and you can grout over them OK.

    6. Make sure you set each tile's face level with at least it's neighbours and ideally level with a number of it's neighbours neighbours too. Use a reasonable straight edge to do this, and don't be afraid to pull a couple of tiles off the wall before the adhesive sets if you are not happy with them.

    7. Do the whole tiles first, then remove your batons (once the tile adhesive is set!!) and go back and finish off, working out how much to cut each tile individually. Again "measure twice, cut once".

    8. Use a good quality adhesive and grout. I bought stuff you had to mix (I've heard that the "fix and grout" stuff isn't that great, but I don't know for sure as I didn't use it) and the mixing was a bit of a pain, but as I say...they're all still stuck...

    9. I used a squeegee for grouting, although a few people I talked to preferred sponges. You'll need sponges anyway to clean the tiles afterwards, so I'd try both and go with the one you feel most at home with. Just make sure you fill all the cracks and get the grout all the way back to the wall. Don't worry about getting grout on the tiles themselves. Provided you don't leave it to dry for too long you can wash it off afterwards.

    10. The guides you can pick up from your local DIY chain are a useful starting point too.

    11. Don't rush it! For two really good reasons: You'll cock something up if you do, and, more importantly, you're much more likely to injure yourself. Make sure you work tidily (I was lucky that I had decent weather so I could do the cutting outside) and methodically.

    Despite the rather long post, its not too bad once you've got going. I guess the secret is planning everything carefully before you start to put the tiles up, and making sure you're tiles are nice and square with each other and their faces are level.
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2006
  10. robcornet

    robcornet Member

    worth mentioning on the tiling front that if it's new plaster then mix 1 part pva glue to 2 parts water and brush onto new plaster as helps the adhesive bond. Also if tiling a wooden floor then use sheets of 12mm ply and screw down every 6 inches and use the pva method on that as well. I found this out after I'd tiled mine and have had a few pop up and crack.
  11. andyp

    andyp Active Member

    Southport, Lancashire
    Also - if you use big tiles it means less grouting to do!

    (those mosiacy things must be a nightmare!)
  12. DaveR

    DaveR Active Member

    Reading, UK
    Also, I'd avoid combined adhesive and grout as I don't think it's very good. Adhesive needs to hold the tile firm, while grout needs to be a little flexible. If you have the glue and the grout combined, one or the other has to be compromised!
  13. ian perks

    ian perks Active Member

    West Midlands
    Mosh as long as you have got your cooker fitted up so you can have some of our Super Best Sausages thats all that matters my friend.
    See me at band for your order;)
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